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The good, the bad and does it make you ugly?! 24th Aug 2006
Can you be totally sure that the products you are putting on your skin are what they say they are? Whilst promising they are full of “plant extracts” and “vitamins” that can stop the skin resembling a deflated soufflé, these products have synthetics in them that could be going as far as poisoning you!
The dazzle of big brand marketing, shiny packaging and lovely smells are enough to send most women into a state of nervous excitement – surely these companies would have your best interests at heart?
No so true! The skincare industry is largely unregulated – a scary thought even to a beauty therapist whose job it is to make people more beautiful, sometimes clients beg me to disregard the chemical consequence!
There is a frighteningly long list of unpronounceable ingredients that people regularly slick onto their skin with wild abandon. I hear people announce “oooohhh the lather I get from my new super smelly organic tea tree shower gel” – sadly, nobody knows, not even the manufacturers, what the effect of the synthetic chemical cocktail is going to do in years to come.
So before you throw out your bathroom contents, stop washing altogether and take on the resemblance of a hairy backpacker after 6 months in Nimbin, here are a couple of pointers to help you in the constantly debated “chemical” war.
The words “organic” and “natural” are extremely misused! Consumers are lead to believe that they are buying a product that may be good for them and also for the environment – most of these products are full of synthetics, the total amount of natural matter that needs to be in the entire product is 0.01% to claim that it is “natural”. So what’s in the rest of the product?
By law companies must list the chemicals on the products packaging. They are put in descending order with the highest concentration coming first. Just because it says organic does not mean that it isn’t full of nasties as well!
Soap
Propylene glycol is a major component, and acts as a solvent for all the other ingredients. It is a mild irritant and easily absorbed by the skin. If large quantities of propylene glycol are repeatedly applied to the skin, or ingested, it can depress the central nervous system - the nerves that make up the brain and spinal cord. Medication containing propylene glycol has been linked to fatal depression of the central nervous system in premature babies. Other effects on the central nervous system have been described in children whose skin has been in contact with the chemical.
Hair wax
Often contains paraffinum liquidum, a poshed up term for liquid paraffin or mineral oil. On contact, the biggest problems mineral oil can cause are sweat rash and inflammation of hair follicles. Questions have been raised about mineral oil as a potential cancer risk, but any carcinogenic effect of the oil is down to contamination with a group of chemicals called polyaromatic hydrocarbons. If ingested, mineral oil acts to dissolve fats, and if taken with food can interfere with the absorption of vital substances.
Moisturiser
The National Environmental Research Institute of Denmark found recently that 99% of all leave-on cosmetics and 77% of rinse-off cosmetics contained parabens. Certainly few moisturisers are made without them. Parabens act as preservatives, but are well known skin and eye irritants and have also been found to mimic the female hormone oestrogen. Because of this latter effect, some scientists suspect there may be a link between parabens and breast cancer, although as yet there is no evidence for this. Allergic skin reactions to parabens have also been documented.
Shower gel
Sodium laureth sulfate is added to shower gel as a cleanser, but it can irritate the skin and eyes at low concentrations. Because it draws fatty molecules from the surface skin layers, it may make the skin feel tighter after usage. Linalool, a fragrance added to shower gel, is also a skin irritant. Another fragrance, coumarin, is rapidly absorbed through the skin and into the body. A few people who have ingested coumarin have suffered liver damage as a result.
Mascara
It is primarily water, plus binding, thickening and emulsifying agents, acidity controllers, texture modifiers, chemicals that prevent it drying out, and preservatives, such as parabens. In 1998, researchers at Brunel University published a paper showing that parabens mimic oestrogen and said, 'Given their use in a wide range of commercially available topical preparations, it is suggested the safety of these chemicals should be re-assessed.' But the European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association said that it had data to show no parabens entered the bloodstream.
Blusher
'Make-up has one of the best safety records, and there is very little evidence that it is genuinely harmful,' says Dr Stephen Antczak, co-author of Cosmetics Unmasked. 'But many people have individual allergies, and alarm bells start ringing when a cosmetic has an ingredient which in a standard laboratory bottle would carry a compulsory warning.' Blushers, for instance, typically contain propylene glycol, which although it's considered safe for use in cosmetics, is used in anti-freeze.
Lip gloss
Parfum was among 10 ingredients Womens Environmental Network (WEN) found listed in lip gloss. It sounds harmlessly fragrant, but it is a catch-all term for hundreds of chemicals, 24 of which have been identified as a common cause of allergies by the European Union's Scientific Committee on Cosmetics And Non-Food Products. Despite this, specific chemicals in parfum do not have to be labelled, so there is no way of telling which might be in your make-up. 'It's a fog,' says Matthew Wilkinson, chemical and health campaigner for WWF.
Make-up remover
It brings a host of ingredients with it. WEN found three parabens and propylene glycol in one brand of wipes; the ubiquitous parfum in an eye make-up remover and, in one brand of facial wash, methyldibromo glutaronitrile. But the effect is likely to be worse in leave-on products such as sunscreens. 'The chemical can cause redness and irritation,' according to Dr Ian White, chairman of the EU's Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products. 'It has been demanded that the chemical should be kept out of these products until a safe level is known.'
Nail varnish
Because nails are porous, they can absorb what is painted on them, and in addition to colour, that can include toluene. Though deemed safe for use, the US Protection Agency's Office of Pollution and Prevention Toxins warns that breathing large quantities can affect the kidneys, liver and heart. Formaldehyde has also been used in hardeners, although it is banned in Sweden and Japan. It's the one chemical, Antczak says, to avoid: 'If a hardener contains more than 0.05%, the label must state "contains formaldehyde".'
Lipstick
The UK's most popular cosmetic, lipstick is used by 81% of women. Assuming you get through five lipsticks a year between the ages of 16-60, you will swallow 2lbs of the stuff, according to WEN, which has calculated that you absorb 90% of what you apply. Lippy typically contains lanolin, propylene glycol and butylparaben, and 'might have extra preservatives to make sure it doesn't become infected as you use it near your mouth,' says Antczak. 'But you have to ask yourself if you want all these chemicals on you, and are they beneficial or not.'
Feminine wipes
Commonly contain a preservative called BNPD, or to give it its full name, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol. Although relatively innocuous on its own, when mixed with other compounds called amines and amides, it can break down to produce potent cancer-causing compounds called N-nitrosamines. For this reason, US and European regulators have recently called for a tightening up of cosmetic formulations to ensure the compounds are never mixed.
Nail varnish remover
You only have to smell nail varnish remover to know it is powerful stuff. The distinctive odour is probably acetone. Workers exposed to acetone in labs complain it irritates their noses, throats, lungs and eyes, according to a public health statement from the Agency For Toxic Substances And Disease Registry, but you would have to inhale a lot of it for a long time to suffer the same effect. The agency also noted people, especially children, who accidentally swallow enough nail varnish remover could be come unconscious and develop tissue damage in the mouth.
Shaving cream
In addition to a range of parabens and alcohols, shaving cream may contain a substance called diethylhexyl adipate (DEHA). It can irritate the skin and eyes on contact, although ingesting DEHA can cause more serious problems. Tests on animals have found that when ingested, DEHA can cause cancerous tumours in mice and abnormal embryos in rats. The US National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health estimates that 11,000 workers in the country inadvertently ingest DEHA each year, either from cosmetics or food contaminated by DEHA in its packaging.
(List taken from The Guardian – Chemical World Report)
The list is exhausting and that’s just the tip of the iceberg! It is only realistic to presume that since most of us have to live in an unavoidably toxic city, it would be totally impossible to live a puritanical life – each person should be armed with the facts and should chose their own health battles. Put in a more basic way – is a cheap high street moisturiser or a deparment store glossily marketed product any more dangerous than eating an entire bag of highly coloured jelly tots or downing 3 diet cokes?! The choice is yours (but the evidence is becoming more substantiated!).
Below is a list of highly recommended products that I have researched (and yes I do use them!) that use a natural preservative system, in some cases are certified organic (look for the soil association symbol if you want proper organic products) and are free from synthetics.
Green People – UK based company (Soil Association accredited)
Green People are committed to offering products that are 100% natural, certified organic and highly effective.
We will maintain our quest for excellence, creativity and innovation at all times, and will not compromise the quality of any Green People product.
None of our formulations or products are or ever have been tested on animals and most of our products are registered by the Vegan Society. All of our products are suitable for Vegetarians.
We believe that you have a fundamental right to know exactly what is contained in the products you are buying and therefore give full ingredient disclosure on all of our products.
We also support charities with related environmental concerns and each year 10% of our net profit is donated to charitable causes linked to 'green' or environmental issues.
The Green People team is a small group of dedicated people all working together for a healthier future and a less polluted world.
Fabulous products, great shower gels, AMAZING sun creams (no more rashes!), really good children’s products.
Trilogy – New Zealand based Company
Sun exposure, environmental stresses, lifestyle and injury can all result in damage and unnecessary premature ageing of the skin. Rosehip oil is the perfect antidote and is the key active ingredient in most Trilogy skin care preparations. This unique oil is a powerhouse of the nutrients and essential fatty acids that play a vital role in the regeneration process of our skin cells and the repair of damaged tissues. Rosehip oil is an ultra-fine oil that absorbs instantly allowing the skin to breathe as it works, helping reduce the appearance of scars, fine lines and pigmentation and restoring the skins moisture balance. Rosehip oil also:
- Assists the body in minimising scarring.
- Improves the appearance of fine lines, skin tone,
pigmentation and signs of premature ageing.
- Nourishes and moisturises dry or very dry skin for softer, smoother skin.
- Assists with normal skin renewal and repair.
- Helps normal skin elasticity and resilience.
- Helps restore your skins healthy glow.
Trilogy Rosehip Oil is extracted from the seeds of certified organic rosehips using a low temperature, solvent free and certified organic process that preserves the unique qualities of the oil and ensures Trilogy Rosehip Oil is the premium quality rosehip oil available. Specified to 80% essential fatty acids.
Try the Trilogy Rosehip Oil – an absolute winner for using in the evening – my skin is markedly better when I use this.
Sanctum – From Byron Bay, Australia
They found the inspiration to start researching, developing and creating naturally derived skincare and over the counter pharmaceutical products. Having witnessed first hand the ‘chemical’ side of the industry while running a manufacture and fill business in Sydney, Australia, Greg was determined to produce a range of products that: remained true to their promise of ‘natural’, carried meaningful levels of active ingredients, and most importantly, really worked. Greg furthered his studies in natural ingredient products chemistry with a vision to encapsulate the pure, tranquility of his surrounds combining locally sourced ingredients with therapeutic levels of active herbal and plant extracts, essentials oils and vitamins. The result is a range of skin, body and hair care treatments that take the efficacy of all-natural preparations to an exciting new level.
Sanctum remains a family owned and run business. Greg takes on the role of chief formulations chemist and draws on his ‘trusted mates’ in the Byron shire as a source for raw, natural ingredients. From humble beginnings in local health food stores, Sanctum is now exported to Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Philippines, UK, Ireland, Canada and USA. Today Greg and Jicky are excited to see their years of hard work and dedication come together as they take Sanctum, “a little piece of Byron” to the world.
Fabulous packaging (great for presents!), the shower gel is absolutely lovely as is the body soothe (body moisturiser). The facial products are second to none, I am a big fan of their foaming cleanser and eye products. I predict this to be a massive brand in a couple of years time….
All these products are available at www.nicetouch.co.uk or can be found in Fresh and Wild and other reputable health shops.
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